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  • Shoulder Pad Bits: Fitting, Heraldry and Rank
  • Shoulder Pad Bits: Fitting, Heraldry and Rank


    Shoulder pads are what the eye reads first. On a 32 mm model seen across a table, the silhouette is a head between two pads — which is why swapping pauldrons changes a unit's identity faster than any other single part, and why it is the first conversion most hobbyists attempt.

    This guide covers the three attachment types, how to get a pad to sit flat, and how to use heraldry to mark rank without repainting the squad.

    The three attachment types

    Flat-back pads

    The back of the pad is flat. It glues onto a shoulder that already has a rounded stub. Easiest to fit, most forgiving of a slight misalignment, and the type most resin pads use.

    Socketed pads

    The pad has a hollow that seats over a ball or peg on the arm. Better alignment, but only if your model has a matching peg — otherwise you are filling a gap.

    Integrated arm-and-pad

    Pad and upper arm sculpted as one piece. The cleanest result and the most dramatic pose change, but it commits you: you are replacing the arm, not dressing it.

    Check which one you have before you order. A socketed pad on a peg-less shoulder is the most common cause of a conversion that never gets finished.

    Getting a pad to sit flat

    1. Dry-fit and look from the front. Both pads should sit at the same height and angle. The eye catches an asymmetry of one millimetre.
    2. Trim the shoulder, not the pad. The shoulder stub is plain plastic; the pad carries the detail you paid for.
    3. Glue the body arm first, let it cure, then the pad. Trying to align both at once while superglue grabs is how you end up with a crooked shoulder.
    4. Use cyanoacrylate. Plastic cement does nothing on resin — there is no polystyrene for it to melt.
    5. Pin oversized pads. Heavy Guard pads are heavy enough to lever themselves off a butt joint. A short brass rod fixes that permanently.

    Using heraldry to mark rank

    A squad reads better when its hierarchy is visible at a glance, and pauldrons are where you put that information. A pattern that works:

    • Line troopers — plain or lightly engraved pads, identical across the squad.
    • Specialists — one differing pad, marking the heavy weapon or the standard bearer.
    • The sergeant — an ornamented pad with relief detail, chains or a skull.
    • The character — a full heraldic shield, or a mismatched pair.

    The mistake is giving everyone the ornate pad. If every model is a hero, none of them reads as one.

    Where to find them

    Pauldrons are spread across the ranges by theme:

    Printing at home instead? The same sculpts are in the STL catalogue.

    Painting a pad off the model

    Paint pauldrons separately, before assembly. The inside rim and the join line are almost impossible to reach once the pad is glued on, and a heraldic device is far easier to freehand on a flat piece you can rotate in your hand.

    Prime, paint, varnish, then glue. The only cost is a little planning.

    Common questions

    Will 32 mm pads fit a Heavy Guard model?

    No. A 32 mm pad on a 40 mm armoured body reads as undersized armour, which is the one mismatch the eye never forgives. Heavy Guard pads are sculpted at their own scale.

    How many pads do I need for a squad?

    Two per model. Our sets are sold in fives and tens — a set of ten covers a five-model squad exactly.

    Do I need to remove the original pad?

    If it is a separate piece, yes — clip and sand it flat. If it is moulded onto the arm, you either cut it off or use an integrated arm-and-pad part instead.

    Can I magnetise pauldrons?

    Yes, and it is worth it on characters you re-theme. A 2 mm magnet in the pad and one in the shoulder gives a clean swap. Drill before you paint.


    Every pad is printed to order in Ultra-HD 14K resin in our Grenoble workshop, washed and cured, ready for primer — dispatched in 3–7 working days.

    Browse faction-free shoulder pads →